Kathryne Kennedy | How to Undress an Eighteenth Century Gentleman
June 30, 2010
Hello again to all the Fresh Fiction readers! It sure is a pleasure to be back
here, and I’m looking forward to hearing from all the kind people that I
remember! I put together a simple cheat-sheet for writers about eighteenth century
clothing, and I thought it might not only be a good guide for writers
researching the era, but also a bit of fun for readers who love history
(although you may want to note the changes I made because of the fantasy aspect
of my world). So without further ado, here’s how you might go about undressing
my hero, General Dominic Raikes, from my upcoming release The Fire Lord’s Lover
1. Shoes: First, let’s get Dominic comfortable be removing his shoes or boots.
Like the women, men wore heeled shoes similar to our modern day clogs where you
slip your foot in, but mostly of black with large buckles. The toes started out
square, and went round by 1740.
Pumps had low heels. I prefer my hero to wear boots, however, and many a
military man wore them to a ball. I prefer the half jackboots, which ended below
the knee in a turned-down top, made of leather. Heavy jackboots went above the
knee, and light jackboots were cut in the back so a man could bend easier.
Slippers were worn indoors, usually heelless leather.
2. Coat: Now we might want to remove Dominic’s coat. The most common coat for a
gentleman had no collar, a flared skirt-like pleated bottom, buttons and very
wide buttonholes down the entire front and along the sleeves. The buttons could
be made of gold, silver, brass, and other metals. The sleeves were wide and
turned up into a large cuff, and short enough that the frills on his
shirtsleeves peeked from beneath. The front had two large pockets about
hip-high. The skirt of the coat was often stiffened with buckram (a stiff
fabric) and whalebone so it flared out widely from the waist. The coat fell past
the knees. It was usually only buttoned at the throat and/or waist, so the rest
of the buttonholes were just for show.
The frock coat was first worn by the lower class, having a less rigid and more
comfortable cut. The gentlemen then adopted the coat for sports, riding & casual
dress. The frock coat had a collar and sometimes, a slit in the sleeves. But
otherwise, it looked similar to the coat described above.
As always, the difference between a gentleman’s dress and the lower classes was
in the material. Silk, satin, damask, gold & silver stuff, etc. for gentlemen;
ticking, rough wool & leather for the lower class. And I should also note here
that a gentleman’s wardrobe was lined.
3. Waistcoat: You will then be able to remove Dominic’s waistcoat, and it looked
very similar to the coat, with buttons down the front and a large pocket on each
side. But the long sleeves and the back were often made of a thinner, cheaper
material, since it didn’t show. And it was shorter than the outer coat, around
mid-thigh. Waistcoats could also be laced up instead of buttoned, have
decorative lining around the hem made of embroidery, lace or fringe. In The Fire Lord’s Lover,
Dominic prefers buttons, since they are easier to remove, and less fussy.
4. Breeches: Depending on your mood, you might want to remove Dominic’s breeches
next, which could be made of the same material as coats, but didn’t have to
match. Start by unbuttoning the waistband’s three buttons (set close together),
and about three more buttons below that to fully open the front. Breeches only
went to just below the knees, so then you need to undo the knee buckles. During
the first quarter of the century, stockings were pulled up over the knees of the
breeches and rolled back down below them over garters (woven silk, ribbon,
braid). But soon the breeches were buckled over the stockings below the knees.
Dominic prefers this method, so after you unbuckle his breeches, you may then
remove:
5. Stockings: The stockings were generally white and made of cotton or silk. You
could certainly use different/contrasting colors for a dandy. But Dominic’s are
usually black, to match the rest of his clothing, and he generally likes to rip
them off.
6. Drawers: In The Fire
Lord’s Lover, General Dominic Raikes doesn’t often wear them (I have found
no evidence that drawers were always worn), but if he happens to have them on,
they have to be untied at the waist and knees, and were generally made of
linen.
7. Neckcloth or Cravat: Untie the cloth from under his chin, where the ends were
left to fall to about his upper mid-chest, then slowly ease it off from around
his neck. Made of muslin, lawn or linen, the ends were decorated with lace or
tasseled. Commoners may wear a handkerchief knotted about the neck. There was
other neckwear, including a stock and solitaire, but Dominic prefers the cravat,
or nothing at all, if the shirt had a ruffled front.
8. Shirt: And finally, gratefully, you can unbutton Dominic’s shirt. Ruffles at
the front and sleeves, often edged in lace. The ruffles at the neck were often
referred to as a jabot, when the cambric or lace edging was sewn to both opening
sides. For commoner or casual wear: plain sleeves with a narrow band. Generally
made of fine white cotton or linen material, referred to as cambric. You could
distinguish a gentleman by how clean his shirt was. In The Fire Lord’s Lover,
Dominic’s shirt is very clean.
9. Other: Men usually had short, close-cropped hair, because they wore a white
wig, longer at the beginning of the century, and of varying styles throughout.
Wigs could be several colors, but were often powdered white. Real hair could be
dressed to resemble a wig, and hair was worn long if you didn’t have one
(artisans & commoners). However, black wigs were often worn by the military.
Some had long and short curls all over, curls just at the sides, braided down
the back, tied back in a queue. Wigs could me made of human hair, horse or goat
hair, and feathers. There was such a variety of wigs that an author can surely
use her imagination with them! In The Fire Lord’s Lover the
men wear wigs to imitate the elven lords’ lustrous long white hair, and use
silver glitter to try to copy the sparkle. Since Dominic has the original, he
does not wear a wig, but will often wear battle braids at the sides.
The cocked, or three-cornered hat, usually made of black beaver felt, was worn
indoors under the arm. It was often quite large, and could be decorated with
ribbon, feathers, lace, etc. Men often wore nightcaps to keep their shaved heads
warm, but the elven lords had a full head of hair to keep them comfy at night.
In The Fire Lord’s
Lover, Dominic wears his hat outdoors, but carries it under his arm the rest
of the time, and he certainly never decorates it with anything other than his
military ribbons.
The general prefers to dress simply, but when at court, he might also carry or
wear: leather gloves, a sword (the hilt protruded through a side vent of the
coat--Dominic always wears one, although he has several fancy swords for court),
and after 1730, a cane as well. Pocket watches, a snuff or toothpick box, a
lace-edged handkerchief.
For outerwear: open cloaks fastened at the neck & Greatcoats (a big frock coat
with back vent for riding). Military men preferred the cloak, and Dominic was no
exception.
References: Costume in Context/The Eighteenth Century by Jennifer Ruby ISBN
071345772, A History of Fashion in Costume/The Eighteenth Century by Anne Rooney
0816059489, Daily Life in Eighteenth Century England by Kirstin Olsen
0313299331, Handbook of English Costume in the 18th Century by C. Willett and
Phillis Cunnington 0823801284. I hope you enjoyed this description of how you might go about undressing my hero
from The Fire Lord’s
Lover, although you might do it in an entirely different order. Especially
after you meet General Dominic Raikes. ;} Let me know what you think--I look
forward to reading your comments! All My Magical Best,
Kathryne
THE FIRE LORD’S LOVER BY
KATHRYNE
KENNEDY--IN STORES JULY 2010
Kathryne Kennedy's
historical fantasy romances have garnered awards and a growing readership. This
exciting new series, set against the lavish backdrops of Georgian and Victorian
England so beloved by romance readers, is deliciously dark and exciting. Fighting for control of a kingdom that is split into seven domains, Elven
warlords use their human slaves to breed an endless supply of soldiers for their
armies. Dominic Raikes, the half-blood son of the Elven Lord himself is one such
warrior. Betrothed to Lady Cassandra, who has been raised in a convent to keep
her pure, he little suspects that she's been secretly trained as an assassin to
murder his father. Dominic and Cassandra soon discover that each one is not what
they seem, but the price of trust may be their very lives, and the destruction
of the magical realm each is desperately trying to save-- ABOUT THE AUTHOR Kathryne Kennedy is a
multipublished, award-winning author of magical romances. She’s lived in Guam,
Okinawa, and several states in the U.S., and currently lives in Arizona with her
wonderful family--which includes two very tiny Chihuahuas. She welcomes readers
to visit her website where she has ongoing contests.
Comments
29 comments posted.
Re: Kathryne Kennedy | How to Undress an Eighteenth Century Gentleman
Wow, wigs made of feather! I've never heard of that before. It's fascinating how involved the clothing was then and how much research went into that one aspect of writing your novel. I'm definitely looking forward to reading The Fire Lord's Lover! (Jacqueline Cook 1:21am June 30, 2010)
I'm a blue jeans and tshirt kind of girl myself.:) (Theresa Norris 10:25am June 30, 2010)
Hi Jacqueline! So glad you're looking forward to it. Music to my ears. :} (Kathryne Kennedy 11:31am June 30, 2010)
Same here, Theresa. :} (Kathryne Kennedy 11:32am June 30, 2010)
Now I know why I don't notice anachronisms in your work. What a lot of research you do! (Pat Hayrynen 2:08pm June 30, 2010)
Wow that is a lot of knowledge about gentlemen's dress in the 18th Century. Are you sure you haven't done a little time travelling to achieve it?
Oh yeah, one other thing - can I try out your list on General Dominic Raikes for myself? (Ilona Fenton 2:16pm June 30, 2010)
Hi Pat! I do try very hard. I hope any mistakes I may make are small enough that they don't interrupt the story. Your comment means a lot to me...thank you so much! (Kathryne Kennedy 2:24pm June 30, 2010)
Oh, Ilona, Yes! Yes! You may absolutely try it on Dominic! ;} (Kathryne Kennedy 2:25pm June 30, 2010)
Wow that sounds really good! i can't wait to read it. Good luck with the novel, i hope that it sells well :) (Nikki McLean 3:08pm June 30, 2010)
What a lovely wish, Nikki. Thanks so much! (Kathryne Kennedy 3:16pm June 30, 2010)
A lot going on there... maybe less is more! ;) Thanks for a great post! (Colleen Conklin 4:30pm June 30, 2010)
I'd start with the gloves and then from the top going down. Undressing sounds very layered, but sexy. (Alyson Widen 4:39pm June 30, 2010)
Wow. Now I'm half way to becoming a valet! :)
By the way, wasn't there a little ice age around that time, hence the need for so many layers? (S Tieh 4:57pm June 30, 2010)
So interesting! I've had the chance to preview this book and this just makes me want to read it again. It was such a fabulous book! (Erin Quinn 5:49pm June 30, 2010)
Wow - I've never seen such a great description of their clothing, thank you for that. I read every word, and often I'll skim through long articles, not yours! Thanks again! (Brenda Rupp 5:51pm June 30, 2010)
Your book sound gooood and i can't wait to read it. Undressing any man is so fun and I feel that it schould be done sloooowww. (Vickie Hightower 6:14pm June 30, 2010)
That was truely interesting to hear the difference in all the clothing. Your book sounds interesting too. (Maude Allen 6:43pm June 30, 2010)
Wow given the opportunity to undress an eighteenth century gentlemen I would not say no. Fascinating thank you. (Mary Preston 6:53pm June 30, 2010)
Heck, with all those clothes, undressing had to be slow!!! Very interesting post, I had no idea. (Martha Lawson 7:24pm June 30, 2010)
Colleen: My pleasure!
Hi Alyson! Gloves first sounds very nice! :}
Unsure about the ice age, S, but it is very cold in England, so they needed warm clothes.
Hey, Erin! Waving! Thanks for stopping by!
That's so great to hear, Brenda! :}
LOL, Vickie!
Thank you, Maude!
Hi Mary! Neither would I. ;}
I manage to get my characters out of them pretty quickly, Martha.
Thanks for all the great comments, ladies. You're the best! (Kathryne Kennedy 7:51pm June 30, 2010)
Hi Kathryne. Thanks for this tantalizing lesson. Loved hearing about the clothing. Good luck with the book. You're a fabulous writer. (Anita Clenney 8:10pm June 30, 2010)
I enjoyed your message, but couldn't help thinking about how expensive such a wardrobe would be today and how hard it would be to get a man to wear it. (Gladys Paradowski 10:10pm June 30, 2010)
Considering all of the research you did for the book to be so authentic, I'm amazed at the complexity of the plot!! It sounds like a great read, and I can't wait to reat it!! This book should give me something new to talk about with my friend from England. He'll wonder where I got these little tidbits from!! (Peggy Roberson 10:14pm June 30, 2010)
You are very kind, AC. Big hug.
I have to agree, Gladys. It would be like wearing a tuxedo every day...and my fellas would shudder at the thought. :}
I did work very hard on this book, Peggy, and I truly appreciate that you recognize it. Thank you so much for the kind comment. (Kathryne Kennedy 11:29pm June 30, 2010)
Interesting post. I love little tid-bits. (Patricia Barraclough 12:30pm July 1, 2010)
Hi Patricia! Good to hear. :} (Kathryne Kennedy 9:28am July 1, 2010)
I can't wait to read this. It sounds awesome!!! (Brandy Blake 1:43pm July 1, 2010)
Must be hard work to dress up in those days! I can just picture the undressing scene! Sounds like a great book. (Tamsyn Takamiya 10:47pm July 3, 2010)
Cool post (Amanda Edmond 7:22am September 15, 2010)
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