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What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wav
Free Press
July 2010
On Sale: July 13, 2010
336 pages
ISBN: 0743294203
EAN: 9780743294201
Paperback
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Non-Fiction Sports
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author
of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of
discovery—of surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the
ocean’s beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of
love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while
crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow wave— that is, to go
from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredder—in a single
year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast
of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric
surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores
the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its
culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning
coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy
in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight
into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and
pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating,
entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man
and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old
man and the sea.
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