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What Surfing Taught Me About Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wav
Free Press
July 2010
On Sale: July 13, 2010
336 pages
ISBN: 0743294203
EAN: 9780743294201
Paperback
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Non-Fiction Sports
With grit, poetry, and humor, Peter Heller, acclaimed author of The Whale Warriors recounts his remarkable journey of discoveryβof surfing, an entirely new challenge; of the oceanβs beauty and power; of the strange surf subculture; of love; and, most of all, of how to seek adventure while crafting a meaningful life. Having resolved to master a big-hollow waveβ that is, to go from kook (surfese for beginner) to shredderβin a single year, Heller travels from Southern California down the coast of Mexico in the company of his girlfriend and the eccentric surfers they meet. Exuberant and fearless, Heller explores the technique and science of surfing the secrets of its culture, and the environmental ravages to the stunning coastline he visits. As Heller plumbs the working of his own heart and finds joy in both love and surfing, he affords readers vivid insight into this fascinating world, with all of its perils and pleasures, its absurdity and wonder. Exhilarating, entertaining, and moving, Kook is a love story between a man and his surfboard, a man and his girlfriend, a not-so-old man and the sea.
 Media BuzzAll Things Considered - July 25, 2010
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