As I enjoy driving and camping around Ireland I was
interested to read THE RULE OF THE LAND: WALKING IRELAND'S
BORDER.
The island of Ireland was divided in the early twentieth
century when the southern part gained independence from
Britain, but the largely Protestant population of the
northern six counties, Ulster, were assured that they could
remain British. Two administrations of course meant an
opportunity for smuggling everything from petrol to cattle,
because the hastily drawn border crossed farmland,
villages, lakes and many roads. Conflict, sadly, scarred
the border area until late in the twentieth century. Now,
with security posts dismantled, Garret Carr decided to
travel the length of the border itself, before the
complications caused by Britain's choice to leave the
European Union ensued.
Starting at the Irish Sea end of the border, Garret first
travelled by canoe on Carlingford Lough. The waves beat
against Haulbowline Lighthouse, which has been withstanding
them since 1824; I like that we quickly get photos of the
structures and beauty spots. The sea lough was named by the
Vikings, who called the bay hollowed by glaciers a fiord.
Just as in the Percy French song, the Mountains of Mourne
sweep down to the sea. Two more lighthouses, built to
resemble monastic round towers, lead the way along the
border, and I enjoy the look Garret gives us at their
engineer, Allan MacDonnell, who worked with Alfred Nobel
and patented many inventions. Garret's camp is visited by
seals and courting couples. Along his journey he learns the
names of the wild birds from a handbook; swallows,
kingfishers, razorbills, buzzards.
Juxtaposed with the Celtic tales of heroes and warrior
queens who rode the borderlands, we get a tragic glance at
the waste of the Troubles. This is a complex landscape
geographically, volcanic, glaciated, wooded, and full of
monuments in stone. The human tales are no less complex and
deserving of respect. While driving up and down to the
North I notice, as Garret does, the different qualities of
tarmac laid by road workers on either side, and the
signposts changing from kilometres in Ireland to miles in
UK. As he discovers, there is no actual route along this
border, just many across it. Maybe in future we will have a
route walk, a tourist attraction, retelling the histories
and celebrating the ancient monuments. Today, Garret found
a paintball centre.
Garret reminds us that the author Colm Toibin walked the
border in 1986. Mountains, small fields, hedgerows, dry-
stone walls, boglands, lanes and lakes are what both of
them found. Ringforts, souterrains, dolmens, crannogs, bog
butters, security watchtowers. And a cheerful, indomitable,
hospitable people, despite the rain. Come and visit. THE
RULE OF THE LAND: WALKING IRELAND'S BORDER is a
fascinating, gentle and fun account by Garrett Carr, author
of Young Adult adventure books like 'The Badness Of
Ballydog', which draw on his Irish setting.
In the wake of the EU referendum, the United Kingdom's border with Ireland has gained greater significance: it is set to become the frontier with the European Union. Over the past year, Garrett Carr has travelled this border, on foot and by canoe, to uncover a landscape with a troubled past and an uncertain future. Across this thinly populated line, travelling down hidden pathways and among ancient monuments, Carr encounters a variety of characters who have made this liminal space their home. He reveals the turbulent history of this landscape and changes the way we look at nationhood, land and power. The book incorporates Carr's own maps and photographs.
This review gives us the ancient history of the Northern Border and its violent tragedy. I liked knowing why this book caught his attention. Carr also covers the present and projects the future of this tentative border. Knowing that maps and pictures are featured is an anticipating addition (Mimi Jacoby 12:45pm June 13, 2017)
© 2003-2024 off-the-edge.net
all rights reserved Privacy Policy