C. W. Gortner has written a well researched, insightful biography of an iconic fashion designer who left a lasting impression in the world of fashion. MADEMOISELLE CHANEL is a page turner and one of my most enjoyable reads in 2015. Mr. Gortner has a gift. He knows how to tell a story with rich descriptions, and for this fashionista, now and forever, it was pure joy.

Gabrielle Chanel was raised in poverty. Her mother was a laundress. Her husband abandoned her and her five children and she raised them as best she could. Gabrielle never lost faith in Papa, telling her siblings he would return and care for them. That was not to be. He did return when her mother died only to place the three girls in a convent to be raised by the nuns. The Sisters of Aubazine excelled at sewing and noticed Gabrielle's skill with a needle. At 14, Sister Therese asked her to embroider a camellia onto a handkerchief from a pattern in a book. When it was completed sister said, "Perfect. You need not fear, child. A skill like this will save you. We will care for you and hope that an apprenticeship can be found for you when you leave the convent".

The promised apprenticeship turned out to be repair of army uniforms, long hours, and a tiny heated attic room that took most of her earnings. She turned to singing in clubs. The only song she knew was about Coco, a dog lost near the Trocodero. It became her theme song and Coco became her stage name. She met, Etienne Balsan, a wealthy Englishman, who took her to live with him at his chateau, Rayallieu. There he gave her money for hats and supplies to decorate them and the use of one of his rooms to display them. Her career began, slowly but surely. Balsan introduced her to another Englishman, Arthur Capel, or Boy as he was known to all. Boy became the love of her life, and though she became rich and famous, his death brought her heartbreak that would stay with her for a long, long time.

Coco Chanel was a woman ahead of her time. "No more woman wearing fruits and birds on their heads as hats", no more corsets, instead the little black dress, long ropes of pearls, daring and modern, sleek and easy to wear. She was self-created, brilliant, a workaholic perfectionist who was a fashion maven, a visionary, and a survivor. She remains a fascinating figure and her simple, elegant clothes designed for wearability and beauty are seen and coveted today. Her perfume Chanel #5 has also stood the test of time and the next time I visit the cosmetics department near my home, I plan to spritz some Chanel #5 and remember Coco Chanel!