The books of May are here—fresh, fierce, and full of feels.
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What would you do?
The International Bestseller Between a Rock and a Hard
Place--Now the Major Motion Picture 127 Hours Hiking into the remote Utah canyonlands, Aron Ralston
felt perfectly at home in the beauty of the natural world.
Then, at 2:41 P.M., eight miles from his truck, in a deep
and narrow slot canyon, an eight-hundred-pound boulder
tumbled loose, pinning Aron's right hand and wrist against
the canyon wall. Through six days of hell, with scant water,
food, or warm clothing, and the terrible knowledge that no
one knew where he was, Aron eliminated his escape option one
by one. Then a moment of stark clarity helped him to solve
the riddle of the boulder--and commit one of the most
extreme and desperate acts imaginable. Honest, inspiring, and undeniably astonishing, 127 Hours:
Between a Rock and a Hard Place has taken its place in
the annals of classic adventure stories.
Excerpt Fraying contrails streak another bluebird sky above the red
desert plateau, and I wonder how many sunburnt days these
badlands have seen since their creation. It's Saturday
morning, April 26, 2003, and I am mountain biking by myself
on a scraped dirt road in the far southeastern corner of
Emery County, in central-eastern Utah. An hour ago, I left
my truck at the dirt trailhead parking area for Horseshoe
Canyon, the isolated geographic window of Canyonlands
National Park that sits fifteen air miles northwest of the
legendary Maze District, forty miles southeast of the great
razorback uplift of the San Rafael Swell, twenty miles west
of the Green River, and some forty miles south of I-70, that
corridor of commerce and last chances (next services: 110
miles). With open tablelands to cover for a hundred miles
between the snowcapped ranges of the Henrys to the southwest
-- the last range in the U.S. to be named, explored, and
mapped -- and the La Sals to the east, a strong wind is
blowing hard from the south, the direction I'm heading.
Besides slowing my progress to a crawl -- I'm in my lowest
gear and pumping hard on a flat grade just to move forward
-- the wind has blown shallow drifts of maroon sand onto the
washboarded road. I try to avoid the drifts, but
occasionally, they blanket the entire road, and my bike
founders. Three times already I've had to walk through
particularly long sand bogs. The going would be much easier if I didn't have this heavy
pack on my back. I wouldn't normally carry twenty-five
pounds of supplies and equipment on a bike ride, but I'm
journeying out on a thirty-mile-long circuit of biking and
canyoneering -- traversing the bottom of a deep and narrow
canyon system -- and it will take me most of the day.
Besides a gallon of water stored in an insulated three-liter
CamelBak hydration pouch and a one-liter Lexan bottle, I
have five chocolate bars, two burritos, and a chocolate
muffin in a plastic grocery sack in my pack. I'll be hungry
by the time I get back to my truck, for certain, but I have
enough for the day. The truly burdensome weight comes from my full stock of
rappelling gear: three locking carabiners, two regular
carabiners, a lightweight combination belay and rappel
device, two tied slings of half-inch webbing, a longer
length of half-inch webbing with ten prestitched loops
called a daisy chain, my climbing harness, a
sixty-meter-long and ten-and-a-half-millimeter-thick dynamic
climbing rope, twenty-five feet of one-inch tubular webbing,
and my rarely used Leatherman-knockoff multi-tool (with two
pocketknife blades and a pair of pliers) that I carry in
case I need to cut the webbing to build anchors. Also in my
backpack are my headlamp, headphones, CD player and several
Phish CDs, extra AA batteries, digital camera and mini
digital video camcorder, and their batteries and protective
cloth sacks. It adds up, but I deem it all necessary, even the camera
gear. I enjoy photographing the otherworldly colors and
shapes presented in the convoluted depths of slot canyons
and the prehistoric artwork preserved in their alcoves. This
trip will have the added bonus of taking me past four
archaeological sites in Horseshoe Canyon that are home to
hundreds of petroglyphs and pictographs. The U.S. Congress
added the isolated canyon to the otherwise contiguous
Canyonlands National Park specifically to protect the
five-thousand-year-old etchings and paintings found along
the Barrier Creek watercourse at the bottom of Horseshoe, a
silent record of an ancient people's presence. At the Great
Gallery, dozens of eight-to-ten-foot-high superhumans hover
en echelon over groups of indistinct animals, dominating
beasts and onlookers alike with their long, dark bodies,
broad shoulders, and haunting eyes. The superbly massive
apparitions are the oldest and best examples of their design
type in the world, such preeminent specimens that
anthropologists have named the heavy and somewhat sinister
artistic mode of their creators the "Barrier Creek style."
Though there is no written record to help us decipher the
artists' meaning, a few of the figures appear to be hunters
with spears and clubs; most of them, legless, armless, and
horned, seem to float like nightmarish demons. Whatever
their intended significance, the mysterious forms are
remarkable for their ability to carry a declaration of ego
across the millennia and confront the modern observer with
the fact that the panels have survived longer and are in
better condition than all but the oldest golden artifacts of
Western civilization. This provokes the question: What will
remain of today's ostensibly advanced societies five
thousand years hence? Probably not our artwork. Nor any
evidence of our record amounts of leisure time (if for no
other reason than most of us fritter away this luxury in
front of our television sets).
* * * In anticipation of the wet and muddy conditions in the
canyon, I'm wearing a pair of beat-up running shoes and
thick wool-blend socks. Thus insulated, my feet sweat as
they pump on my bike pedals. My legs sweat, too, compressed
by the Lycra biking shorts I'm wearing beneath my beige
nylon shorts. Even through double-thick padding, my bike
seat pummels my rear end. Up top, I have on a favorite Phish
T-shirt and a blue baseball cap. I left my waterproof jacket
back at my truck; the day is going to be warm and dry, just
like it was yesterday when I biked the twelve-mile loop of
the Slick Rock Trail over east of Moab. If it were going to
be rainy, a slot canyon would be the last place I'd be
headed, jacket or no. Lightweight travel is a pleasure to
me, and I've figured how to do more with less so I can go
farther in a given amount of time. Yesterday I had just my
small CamelBak with a few bike-repair items and my cameras,
a measly ten-pound load for the four-hour loop ride. In the
evening, paring out the bike gear, I hiked five miles on an
out-and-back visit to a natural arch out toward Castle
Valley, carrying only six pounds total of water and camera
equipment. The day before, Thursday, with my friend Brad
Yule from Aspen, I had climbed and skied Mount Sopris, the
12,995-foot monarch of western Colorado, and had carried a
few extra clothes and backcountry avalanche rescue gear, but
I still kept my load under fifteen pounds. My five-day road trip will culminate on Sunday night with an
unsupported solo attempt to mountain bike the 108-mile White
Rim Trail in Canyonlands National Park. If I carried the
supplies I'd used over the three days it took me the first
time I rode that trail in 2000, I'd have a sixty-pound pack
and a sore back before I went ten miles. In my planning
estimates this time around, I am hoping to carry fifteen
pounds and complete the loop in under twenty-four hours. It
will mean following a precision-charted water-management
plan to capitalize on the scarce refilling opportunities, no
sleeping, and only the bare minimum of stopping. My biggest
worry isn't that my legs will get tired -- I know they will,
and I know how to handle it -- but rather that my, uh,
undercarriage will become too sensitive to allow me to ride.
"Crotch coma," as I've heard it called, comes from the
desensitizing overstimulation of the perineum. As I haven't
ridden my bike any extended distance since last summer, my
bike-saddle tolerance is disconcertingly low. Had I
anticipated this trip prior to two nights ago I would have
gone out for at least one long ride in the Aspen area
beforehand. As it happened, some friends and I called off a
mountaineering trip at the last moment on Wednesday; the
cancellation freed me for a hajj to the desert, a pilgrimage
for warmth to reacquaint myself with a landscape other than
wintry mountains. Usually, I would leave a detailed schedule
of my plans with my roommates, but since I left my home in
Aspen without knowing what I was going to do, the only word
of my destination I gave was "Utah." I briefly researched my
trip options by consulting my guidebooks as I drove from
Mount Sopris to Utah Thursday night. The result has been a
capriciously impromptu vacation, one that will even
incorporate dropping in on a big campout party near Goblin
Valley State Park tonight. It's nearing ten-thirty a.m. as I pedal into the shade of a
very lonesome juniper and survey my sunbaked surroundings.
The rolling scrub desert gradually drops away into a region
of painted rock domes, hidden cliffs, weathered and warped
bluffs, tilted and tortured canyons, and broken monoliths.
This is hoodoo country; this is voodoo country. This is
Abbey's country, the red wasteland beyond the end of the
roads. Since I arrived after dark last night, I wasn't able
to see much of the landscape on my drive in to the
trailhead. As I scan the middle ground to the east for any
sign of my destination canyon, I take out my chocolate
muffin from the Moab grocery's bakery and have to
practically choke it down; both the muffin and my mouth have
dried out from exposure to the arid wind. There are copious
signs of meandering cattle from a rancher's ongoing attempt
to make his living against the odds of the desert. The herds
trample sinuous tracks through the indigenous life that
spreads out in the ample space: a lace of grasses, foot-tall
hedgehog cacti, and black microbiotic crust cloak the red
earth. I wash down the rest of the muffin, except for a few
crumbs in the wrapper, with several pulls from the
CamelBak's hydration tube fastened to my shoulder strap. Remounting, I roll down the road in the wind-protected lee
of the ridgeline in front of me, but at the top of the next
hill, I'm thrust into battle against the gusts once more.
After another twenty minutes pistoning my legs along this
blast furnace of a road, I see a group of motorbikers
passing me on their way to the Maze District of Canyonlands.
The dust from the motorbikes blows straight into my face,
clogging my nose, my eyes, my tear ducts, even gluing itself
to my teeth. I grimace at the grit pasted on my lips, lick
my teeth clean, and press on, thinking about where those
bikers would be headed. I've visited the Maze only once myself, for about half an
hour, nearly ten years ago. When our Cataract Canyon rafting
party pulled over in the afternoon to set up camp along the
Colorado River at a beach called Spanish Bottom, I hiked a
thousand feet up over the rim rock into a place known as the
Doll's House. Fifty-to-one-hundred-foot-tall hoodoo rock
formations towered above me as I scrambled around the
sandstone and granite like a Lilliputian. When I finally
turned around to look back at the river, I jerked to a halt
and sat on the nearest boulder with a view. It was the first
time the features and formative processes of the desert had
made me pause and absorb just how small and brave we are, we
the human race. Down behind the boats at Spanish Bottom, a furious river
churned; suddenly, I perceived in its auburn flow that it
was, even at that exact moment, carving that very canyon
from a thousand square miles of desert tablelands. From the
Doll's House, I had the unexpected impression that I was
watching the ongoing birth of an entire landscape, as if I
were standing on the rim of an exploding caldera. The vista
held for me a feeling of the dawn of time, that primordial
epoch before life when there was only desolate land. Like
looking through a telescope into the Milky Way and wondering
if we're alone in the universe, it made me realize with the
glaring clarity of desert light how scarce and delicate life
is, how insignificant we are when compared with the forces
of nature and the dimensions of space. Were my group to
board those two rafts a mile in the distance and depart, I
would be as cut off from human contact as a person could be.
In fifteen to thirty days' time, I would starve in a lonely
death as I hiked the meanders back upriver to Moab, never
again to see the sign or skin of another human. Yet beyond
the paucity and the solitude of the surrounding desert, it
was an exultant thought that peeled back the veneer of our
self-important delusions. We are not grand because we are at
the top of the food chain or because we can alter our
environment -- the environment will outlast us with its
unfathomable forces and unyielding powers. But rather than
be bound and defeated by our insignificance, we are bold
because we exercise our will anyway, despite the ephemeral
and delicate presence we have in this desert, on this
planet, in this universe. I sat for another ten minutes,
then, with my perspective as widened as the view from that
bluff, I returned to camp and made extra-short work of dinner.
Riding down the road past the metal culvert that marks the
dried-up source of the West Fork of Blue John Canyon, I pass
through a signed intersection where a branch of the dirt
road splits off toward Hanksville, a small town an hour to
the west at the gateway to Capitol Reef National Park.
Hanksville is the closest settlement to the Robbers Roost
and the Maze District, and home to the nearest landline
public telephone in the region. Just a half mile farther, I
pass a slanting grassy plain that was an airstrip until
whatever minor catastrophe forced whoever was flying there
to head back to more tenable ground. It's an indication of
how small planes and helicopters are typically the only
efficient means of getting from here to there in this
country. Some of the time, though, it's not financially
worth leaving here to get there, even if you can fly. Better
just to stay at home. The Mormons gave their best efforts to transect this part of
the country with road grades, but they, too, retreated to
the established towns of Green River and Moab. Today most of
those Mormon trails have been abandoned and replaced by
still barely passable roads whose access by vehicle is,
ironically, more sparse than it was by horse or wagon a
hundred years ago. Last night I drove fifty-seven miles down
the only dirt road in the eastern half of two counties to
arrive at my embarkation point -- it was two and a half
hours of washboard driving during which I didn't pass a
single light or a house. Frontier ranchers, rustlers,
uranium miners, and oil drillers each left a mark on this
land but have folded their hands in deference to the stacked
deck of desert livelihood. Those seekers of prosperity weren't the first to cross the
threshold into this country, only to abandon the region as a
barren wasteland: Progressive waves of ancient communities
came into being and vanished over the ages in the area's
canyon bottoms. Usually, it would be a significant drought
or an incursion by hostile bands that made life in the high
country and the deserts farther south seem more hospitable.
But sometimes there are no defensible answers to explain the
sudden evacuation of an entire culture from a particular
place. Five thousand years ago, the people of Barrier Creek
left their pictographs and petroglyphs at the Great Gallery
and Alcove Gallery; then they disappeared. Since they left
no written record, why they departed is both a mystery and a
springboard for the imagination. Looking at their paintings
and standing in their homes, gardens, and trash heaps, I
feel connected to the aboriginal pioneers who inhabited
these canyons so long ago. As I grind my way out onto the open mesa, the wind slaps at
my face, and I find myself already looking forward to the
final hike through Horseshoe Canyon, where I will finish my
tour. I can't wait to get out of this demeaning wind. To judge from what I've seen on my ride, there are few
significant differences in this area between Blue John
Griffith's day and the present. The Bureau of Land
Management (BLM) has graded the century-old horse trail and
added scattered signposts, but even the ubiquitous fences
that partition the rest of the West are noticeably absent.
Perhaps it's the lack of barbed wire that makes this place
feel so terrifically remote. I spend a lot of time in
out-of-the-way areas -- two or three days a week in
designated wildernesses, even through the winter -- but most
of them don't feel half as isolated as this back road. As I
consider this, abruptly, my solitude changes to loneliness
and seems somehow more tenacious. While the region's towns
may have simmered since those raucous days when the Robbers
Roost was earning its name, the outlying desert is still
just as wild. A mile past Burr Pass, my torturous ride into the
thirty-mile-an-hour headwind finally comes to an end. I
dismount and walk my bike over to a juniper tree and fasten
a U-lock through the rear tire. I have little worry that
anyone will tamper with my ride out here, but as my dad
says, "There's no sense in tempting honest people." I drop
the U-lock's keys into my left pocket and turn toward the
main attraction, Blue John Canyon. I follow a deer path on
an overland shortcut, listening to some of my favorite music
on my CD player now that the wind isn't blowing so
obnoxiously in my ears. After I've hiked through some dunes
of pulverized red sandstone, I come to a sandy gully and see
that I've found my way to the nascent canyon. "Good, I'm on
the right route," I think, and then I notice two people
walking out of view thirty yards downcanyon. I leap down the
dune into the shallow wash, and once I'm around the dune's
far corner, I spot the hikers, who look from this distance
to be two young women. "What are the odds?" I think, surprised to find anyone else
this far out in the desert. Having been inside my head for
three hours, and perhaps wanting to shake that feeling of
loneliness picked up out on the road, I pause to take off my
headphones, then spur myself to catch up. They're moving
almost as quickly as I can manage without jogging, and it
takes a minute before I can tell that I'm making any
distance on them at all. I'd been fully expecting a solo
descent in the Main Fork of Blue John Canyon, but meeting
like-minded people in far-flung places is usually a fun
addition to the experience for me, especially if they can
keep a fast pace. In any case, I can hardly avoid them at
this point. At another bend, they look back and see me but
don't wait up. Finally, I catch up with them but can't
really pass them unless they stop, which they don't. Realizing that we're going to be hiking together for a
while, I figure I should initiate a conversation. "Howdy," I
begin, "how's it goin'?" I'm not sure if they're open to
meeting a stranger in the backcountry. They answer with a
pair of unadorned hi's. Hoping for something a little more engaging, I try again. "I
wasn't expecting to see anyone in the canyon today." Even though it is a Saturday, this place is remote, and so
obscure I couldn't even tell it was here from the Robbers
Roost dirt access road, despite my map that definitively
shows the canyon's presence. "Yeah, you surprised us, sneaking up like that," the
brown-haired woman replies, but then she smiles. "Oh, sorry. I was listening to my headphones, kind of
wrapped up in my thoughts," I explain. Returning the smile,
I extend an introduction: "My name's Aron." They relax noticeably and share their names -- they are
Megan, the brunette who spoke to me and who seems to be the
more outgoing one of the pair, and Kristi. Megan's
shoulder-length hair whirls attractively around her hazel
eyes and rosy-cheeked face. She's wearing a blue zip-neck
long-sleeved shirt and blue track pants and carries a blue
backpack -- if I had to guess, I'd say she likes the color
blue. Kristi's blond hair is pulled back in a ponytail that
reveals the sunny freckles on her forehead and her deep
grayish-blue eyes. Besides her clothes -- a plain white
short-sleeved T-shirt with blue shorts over black long
underwear -- I notice that Kristi has accessorized for the
day, wearing small silver hoop earrings and dark sunglasses
with faux tortoiseshell frames and a snakeskin-pattern
retaining strap. Unusual to have earrings on in a canyon,
but I'm hardly dressed to kill, so I skip issuing a fashion
citation. Both women are in their mid-twenties, and I learn
in response to my first question that they both hail from
Moab. I briefly work on memorizing their names, and which
one is which, so I don't goof it up later. Megan doesn't seem to mind joining me in conversation. She
fires off a story about how she and Kristi overshot the
Granary Spring Trailhead and got lost in the desert for an
hour before they found the start of the canyon. I say I
think it is easier to navigate on a bike than in a vehicle
because the landscape passes more slowly. "Oh my God, if we'd been on bikes, we'd have dried up in the
wind before we got here," Megan cracks, and it serves to
break the ice. The canyon is still just a shallow arroyo -- a dry sandy
gulch -- nestled between two sets of thirty-foot-tall sand
dunes. Before the terrain becomes more technical, we ease
into a friendly exchange, chatting about our lives in the
polarized resort communities of Moab and Aspen. I learn that
they, like me, work in the outdoor recreation industry. As
logistics managers for Outward Bound, they outfit
expeditions from the company's supply warehouse in Moab. I
tell them I'm a sales and shop worker at the Ute
Mountaineer, an outdoor gear store in Aspen. There's a mostly unspoken acknowledgment among the
voluntarily impoverished dues-payers of our towns that it's
better to be fiscally poor yet rich in experience -- living
the dream -- than to be traditionally wealthy but live
separate from one's passions. There is an undercurrent of
attitude among the high-country proletariat that to buy
one's way back into the experience of resort life is a
shameful scarlet letter. Better to be the penniless local
than the affluent visitor. (But the locals depend on the
visitors to survive, so the implied elitism is less than
fair.) We understand our mutual membership on the same side
of the equation. The same is true of our environmental sensibilities. We each
hold Edward Abbey -- combative conservationist;
anti-development, anti-tourism, and anti-mining essayist;
beer swiller; militant ecoterrorist; lover of the wilderness
and women (preferably wilderness women, though those are
unfortunately rare) -- as a sage of environmentalism.
Remembering an oddball quote of his, I say how he delighted
in taking things to the extreme. "I think there was an essay
where he wrote, 'Of course, we're all hypocrites. The only
true act of an environmentalist would be to shoot himself in
the head. Otherwise he's still contaminating the place by
his mere presence.' That's a paraphrase, but it's
effectively what he said." "That's kind of morbid," Megan replies, putting on a face of
sham guilt for not shooting herself. Moving on from Ed Abbey, we discover that we're each
experienced in slot canyoneering. Kristi asks me what my
favorite slot canyon is, and without hesitation, I recount
my experience in Neon Canyon, an unofficially named branch
of the Escalante River system in south-central Utah. I wax
poetic about its five rappels, the keeper pothole (a deep,
steep, and smooth-walled hole in the canyon floor that will
"keep" you there if you don't have a partner to boost out
first), and the Golden Cathedral: a bizarre rappel through a
sandstone tunnel in the roof of an alcove the size of Saint
Peter's that leaves you hanging free from the walls for
almost sixty feet until you land in a large pool of water
and then swim to the shore. "It's phenomenal, you have to go," I conclude. Kristi tells me about her favorite slot, which is just
across the dirt road from the Granary Spring Trailhead. It's
one of the upper forks of the Robbers Roost drainage,
nicknamed "Mindbender" by her Outward Bound friends. She
describes a passage in that slot where you traverse the
canyon wedged between the walls some fifteen feet off the
ground, the V-shaped slot tapering to a few inches wide at
your feet, and even narrower below that. I mentally add that one to my to-do list. A few minutes later, just before noon, we arrive at a steep,
smooth slide down a rock face, which heralds the first slot
and the deeper, narrower sections that have drawn us to Blue
John Canyon. I slide fifteen feet down the rock embankment,
skidding on the soles of my sneakers, leaving a pair of
black streaks on the pink sandstone and spilling forward
into the sand at the bottom of the wall. Hearing the noise
as she comes around the corner, Kristi sees me squatting in
the dirt and assumes I have fallen. "Oh my gosh, are you
OK?" she asks. "Oh yeah, I'm fine. I did that on purpose," I tell her in
earnest, as the skid truly had been intentional. I catch her
glance, a good-natured shot that tells me she believes me
but thinks I'm silly for not finding an easier way down. I
look around and, seeing an obviously less risky access route
that would have avoided the slide, I feel slightly foolish. Five minutes later, we come to the first section of
difficult downclimbing, a steep descent where it's best to
turn in and face the rock, reversing moves that one would
usually use for climbing up. I go down first, then swing my
backpack around to retrieve my video camera and tape Megan
and Kristi. Kristi pulls a fifteen-foot-long piece of red
webbing out of her matching red climber's backpack and
threads it through a metal ring that previous canyoneering
parties have suspended on another loop of webbing tied
around a rock. The rock is securely wedged in a depression
behind the lip of the drop-off, and the webbing system
easily holds a person's weight. Grasping the webbing, Megan
backs herself down over the drop-off. She has to maneuver
around an overhanging chockstone -- a boulder suspended
between the walls of the canyon -- that blocks an otherwise
easy scramble down into the deepening slot. Once Megan is
down, Kristi follows skittishly, as she doesn't completely
trust the webbing system. After she's down, I climb back up
to retrieve Kristi's webbing. We walk thirty feet and come to another drop-off. The walls
are much closer now, only two to three feet apart. Megan
throws her backpack over the drop before shimmying down
between the walls, while Kristi takes a few pictures. I
watch Megan descend and help her by pointing out the best
handholds and footholds. When Megan is at the bottom of the
drop, she discovers that her pack is soaking wet. It turns
out her hydration-system hose lost its nozzle when she
tossed the pack over the ledge, and was leaking water into
the sand. She quickly finds the blue plastic nozzle and
stops the water's hemorrhage, saving her from having to
return to the trailhead. While it's not a big deal that her
pack is wet, she has lost precious water. I descend last, my
pack on my back and my delicate cameras causing me to get
stuck briefly between the walls at several constrictions.
Squirming my way over small chockstones, I stem my body
across the gap between the walls to follow the plunging
canyon floor. There is a log wedged in the slot at one
point, and I use it like a ladder on a smooth section of the
skinny-people-only descent. While the day up above the rim rock is getting warmer, the
air down in the canyon becomes cooler as we enter a
four-hundred-yard-long section of the canyon where the walls
are over two hundred feet high but only fifteen feet apart.
Sunlight never reaches the bottom of this slot. We pick up
some raven's feathers, stick them in our hats, and pause for
photographs. A half mile later, several side canyons drop into the Main
Fork where we are walking, as the walls open up to reveal
the sky and a more distant perspective of the cliffs
downcanyon. In the sun once again, we stop to share two of
my melting chocolate bars. Kristi offers some to Megan, who
declines, and Kristi says, "I really can't eat all this
chocolate by myself...Never mind, yes I can," and we laugh
together. We come to an uncertain consensus that this last significant
tributary off to the left of the Main Fork is the West Fork,
which means it's the turnoff for Kristi and Megan to finish
their circuit back to the main dirt road about four miles
away. We get hung up on saying our goodbyes when Kristi
suggests, "Come on, Aron, hike out with us -- we'll go get
your truck, hang out, and have a beer." I'm dedicated to finishing my planned tour, so I counter,
"How about this? -- you guys have your harnesses, I have a
rope -- you should come with me down through the lower slot
and do the Big Drop rappel. We can hike out...see the Great
Gallery...I'll give you a lift back to your truck." "How far is it?" asks Megan. "Another eight miles or so, I think." "What? You won't get out before dark! Come on, come with us." "I really have my heart set on doing the rappel and seeing
the petroglyphs. But I'll come around to the Granary Spring
Trailhead to meet you when I'm done." This they agree to. We sit and look at the maps one more
time, confirming our location on the Blue John map from the
canyoneering guidebook we'd each used to find this remote
slot. In my newest copy of Michael Kelsey's Canyon Hiking
Guide to the Colorado Plateau, there are over a hundred
canyons described, each with its own hand-sketched map.
Drawn by Kelsey from his personal experience in each canyon,
the technical maps and route descriptions are works of art.
With cross sections of tricky slots, identifications of
hard-to-find petroglyphs and artifact sites, and details of
required rappelling equipment, anchor points, and deep-water
holes, the book offers enough information for you to sleuth
your way through a decision or figure out where you are, but
not a single item extra. After we put away the maps, we
stand up, and Kristi says, "That picture in the book makes
those paintings look like ghosts; they're kind of spooky.
What kind of energy do you think you'll find at the Gallery?" "Hmm." I pause to consider her question. "I dunno. I've felt
pretty connected looking at petroglyphs before; it's a good
feeling. I'm excited to see them." Megan double-checks: "You're sure you won't come with us?"
But I'm as set on my choice as they are on theirs. A few minutes before they go, we solidify our plan to meet
up around dusk at their campsite back by Granary Spring.
There's going to be a Scooby party tonight of some friends
of friends of mine from Aspen, about fifty miles away, just
north of Goblin Valley State Park, and we agree to caravan
there together. Most groups use paper plates as improvised
road signs to an out-of-the-way rendezvous site; my friends
have a large stuffed Scooby-Doo to designate the turnoff.
After what I'll have completed -- an all-day adventure tour,
fifteen miles of mountain biking and fifteen miles of
canyoneering -- I'll have earned a little relaxation and
hopefully a cold beer. It will be good to see these two
lovely ladies of the desert again so soon, too. We seal the
deal by adding a short hike of Little Wild Horse Canyon, a
nontechnical slot in Goblin Valley, to the plan for tomorrow
morning. New friends, we part ways at two P.M. with smiles
and waves. * * * Alone once again, I walk downcanyon, continuing on my
itinerary. Along the way, I think through the remainder of
my vacation time. Now that I have a solid plan for Sunday to
hike Little Wild Horse, I speculate that I'll get back to
Moab around seven o'clock that evening. I'll have just
enough time to get my gear and food and water prepared for
my bike ride on the White Rim in Canyonlands National Park
and catch a nap before starting around midnight. By doing
the first thirty miles of the White Rim by headlamp and
starlight, I should be able to finish the 108-mile ride late
Monday afternoon, in time for a house party my roommates and
I have planned for Monday night. Without warning, my feet stumble in a pile of loose pebbles
deposited from the last flash flood, and I swing my arms out
to catch my balance. Instantly, my full attention returns to
Blue John Canyon. My raven feather is still tucked in the band at the back of
my blue ball cap, and I can see its shadow in the sand. It
looks goofy -- I stop in the open canyon and take a picture
of my shadow with the feather. Without breaking stride, I
unclip my pack's waist belt and chest strap, flip my pack
around to my chest, and root around inside the mesh outer
pouch until I can push play on my portable CD player.
Audience cheers give way to a slow lilting guitar intro and
then soft lyrics: How is it I never see / The waves that bring her words to
me? I'm listening to the second set of the February 15 Phish
show that I attended three months ago in Las Vegas. After a
moment of absorbing the music, I smile. I'm glad at the
world: This is my happy place. Great tunes, solitude,
wilderness, empty mind. The invigoration of hiking alone,
moving at my own pace, clears out my thoughts. A sense of
mindless happiness -- not being happy because of something
in particular but being happy because I'm happy -- is one of
the reasons why I go to the lengths I do to have some
focused time to myself. Feeling aligned in my body and head
rejuvenates my spirit. Sometimes, when I get high-minded
about it, I think solo hiking is my own method of attaining
a transcendental state, a kind of walking meditation. I
don't get there when I sit and try to meditate, om-style; it
happens only when I'm walking by myself. Unfortunately, as
soon as I recognize that I'm having such a moment, the
feeling ebbs, thoughts return, the transcendence evaporates.
I work hard to set myself up for that fleeting sense of
being wholly pleased, but my judgments about the feeling
displace the feeling itself. Although it's ephemeral, the
general well-being that accompanies such a moment will boost
my temperament for hours or even days. It's two-fifteen P.M., and in the balance of sunshine and
thin stratus layers, the day's weather is poised at
equilibrium. In the open section of the canyon, the
temperature is about fifteen degrees warmer than it was at
the bottom of the deep slot. There are a few full-fledged
cumulus clouds listing like lost clipper ships, but no
shade. I come upon a wide yellow arroyo entering from the
right, and I check my map. This is the East Fork. Kristi and
Megan definitely chose the correct fork to return. The
choice seemed obvious then, but even obvious decisions need
to be double-checked in the backcountry. Navigating in a
deep canyon can be deceptively complex. Occasionally, I'm
tempted to think that there's nothing to it; I just keep
going straight. With three-hundred-foot walls fencing me in
five feet to either side, I can't really lose the bottom of
the canyon, like I can lose the route on a mountainside. But
I've gotten disoriented before. A forty-mile solo trip in Paria Canyon comes to mind. There
was a stretch about a third of the way into the canyon when
I completely lost track of where I was. I hiked roughly five
miles downstream before I found a landmark that indicated an
exact position on my map. This became critical, because I
needed to find the exit trail before night fell. When you're
looking for an entry/exit, sometimes being fifty yards
off-route can hide the way. So now I pay close attention to
my map. When I'm navigating well in the canyons, I check my
map even more frequently than when I'm on a mountain, maybe
every two hundred yards. If we could see the many waves / That float through
clouds and sunken caves / She'd sense at least the words
that sought her / On the wind and underwater. The song blends into something atonally sweet but unattended
as I pass another shallow wash coming in from the right. On
the map, the arroyo seems to correspond with what Kelsey has
named Little East Fork, dropping from a higher tableland he
labels Goat Park. The elevated benches and rolling juniper-covered highlands
of Goat Park to my right are up above the
170-million-year-old Carmel Formation, a sloping capstone of
interlayered purple, red, and brown siltstone, limestone,
and shale strata deposit. The capstone is more resistant to
erosion than the older wind-deposited Navajo sandstone that
forms the smooth ruddy-hued cliffs of the scenic slot
canyons. In places, this differential erosion creates
hoodoos, freestanding rock towers and tepees, and tall dunes
of colored stone that dot the upper reaches of the canyon's
cliffs. The juxtaposed textures, colors, and shapes of the
Carmel and Navajo rock layers reflect the polarized
landscapes that formed them -- the early Jurassic Period sea
and the late Triassic Period desert. Settling out from a
great sea, the Carmel Formation sediments look like
solidified mud that dried up last month. On the other hand,
cross-bedded patterns in the Navajo sandstone reveal its
ancestry from shifting sand dunes: One fifteen-foot-high
band in the cliffs displays inlaid lines slanting to the
right; the next band's layers slant to the left; and above
that, the stratification lines lie perfectly horizontal.
Over the eons, the dunes repeatedly changed shape under the
prevailing force of wind blowing across an ancient
Sahara-like desert, devoid of vegetation. Depending if the
sandstone shapes left behind are beat upon more by wind or
by water, they look like either rough-hewn sand domes or
polished cliffs. All this beauty keeps a smile on my face. I estimate that the distance I have left to cover is about a
half mile until I reach the narrow slot above the
sixty-five-foot-high Big Drop rappel. This
two-hundred-yard-long slot marks the midpoint of my descent
in Blue John and Horseshoe canyons. I've come about seven
miles from where I left my bike, and I have about eight
miles to get to my truck. Once I reach the narrow slot,
there will be some short sections of downclimbing,
maneuvering over and under a series of chockstones, then 125
yards of very tight slot, some of it only eighteen inches
wide, to get to the platform where two bolt-and-hanger sets
provide an anchor for the rappel. Rappel bolts are typically
three-inch-long, three-eighths-inch-diameter expansion bolts
set in either hand- or cordless-drilled holes that secure a
disc of flat metal bent into an L-shape called a hanger. The
hangers have two holes, one in the flush section for the
bolt to hold it to the wall, and one in the bent lip that
can be clipped by a carabiner, a screw-gate chain link, or
threaded with a length of webbing. When the bolt is properly
installed in solid rock, you can load several thousand
pounds on it without concern, but in slot canyons, the rock
often rots around the bolt shaft due to frequent flooding
events. It's reassuring when there are two bolt/hangers that
can be used in tandem, in case one unexpectedly fails. I have my climbing rope, harness, belay device, and webbing
with me for the rappel, and I have my headlamp along to
search crevices for snakes before putting my hands in them.
I'm already thinking ahead to the hike after the rappel,
especially the Great Gallery. Kelsey's guidebook calls it
the best pictograph panel on the Colorado Plateau -- and the
Barrier Creek style, "the style against which all others are
compared" -- which has piqued my interest since I read about
it on my drive to Utah two days ago. Gold in my hair / In a country pool / Standing and waving
/ The rain, wind on the runway. I'm caught up in another song and barely notice the canyon
walls closing in, forming the beginning of the slot, this
one more like a back alley between a couple of self-storage
warehouses than the skyscrapers of the upper slot. An
anthemic guitar riff accompanies me as my stride turns into
more of a strut and I pump my right fist in the air. Then I
reach the first drop-off in the floor of the canyon, a
dryfall. Were there water in the canyon, this would be a
waterfall. A harder layer embedded in the sandstone has
proved more resistant to erosion by the floods, and this
dark conglomerate forms the lip at the drop. From the ledge
where I'm standing to the continuing canyon bottom is about
ten feet. About twenty feet downcanyon, an S-shaped log is
jammed between the walls. It would provide an easier descent
path if I could get to it, but it seems more difficult to
access via the shallow and sloping conglomerate shelf on my
right than by the ten-foot drop to the canyon floor over the
lip in front of me. I use a few good in-cut handholds on my left to lower myself
around the overhang, gripping the sandstone huecos --
water-hollowed holes in the wall -- like jug handles. At
full extension, my legs dangle two, maybe three feet off the
floor. I let go and drop off the dryfall, landing in a sandy
concavity carved deeper than the surrounding floor by the
impact of floodwaters dropping over the lip. My feet hit the
dried mud, which cracks and crumbles like plaster; I sink up
to my shoe tops in the powdery platelets. It's not a
difficult maneuver, but I couldn't climb directly up the
drop-off from below. I'm committed to my course; there's no
going back. A new song starts up in my headphones as I walk under the
S-log, and the canyon deepens to thirty feet below the tops
of the sand domes overhead. I fear I never told you the story of the ghost / That I
once knew and talked to, of whom I never boast. The pale sky is still visible above this ten-foot-wide gash
in the earth's surface. In my path are two van-sized
chockstones a hundred feet apart. One is just a foot off the
sandy canyon bottom; the next sits square on the corridor
floor. I scramble over both blockages. The canyon narrows to
four feet wide, with undulating and twisting walls that lead
me to the left then back to the right, through a straight
passage, then left and right again, all the while deepening. Colossal flood action has scooped out beach balls of rock
from the sandstone walls and wedged logs thirty feet
overhead. Slot canyons are the last place you want to be
during a desert thunderstorm. The sky directly above the
canyon might be clear, but a cloudburst in the watershed
even ten or twenty miles away can maul and drown unwary
canyoneers. In a flood, the rain falls faster than the
ground can absorb it. In the eastern United States, it might
take the ground days or weeks to reach saturation and for
rivers to flood after many inches or even feet of rain. In
the desert, the hard sunbaked earth acts like fired
clay-tile shingles, and a flood can start from a fraction of
an inch of rain that might come in five minutes from a
single storm cloud. Chased off the impermeable hardscrabble,
the downpour creates a surging deluge. Runoff gathers from
converging drainages and quickly becomes a foot of water in
a forty-foot-wide section of the canyon. That same amount of
water becomes a catastrophic torrent in a confined space.
Where the walls narrow to four feet, the flood turns into a
ten-foot-high chaos of churning mud and debris that moves
boulders, sculpts canyons, lodges drift material in
constrictions, and kills anything that can't climb to safety. In this meandering section of the narrow canyon, silt
residue from the most recent flood coats the walls to a
height of twelve feet above the beachlike floor, and decades
of scour marks overlay the rosy and purplish striations of
exposed rock. The undulating walls distort the flat lines of
the strata and grab my attention in one spot where the
opposing walls dive in front of each other at a
double-hairpin meander. I stop to take a few photographs. I
note that the time stamp is a minute slow compared to my
watch: The digital camera's screen says it is 2:41 P.M.,
Saturday afternoon, April 26, 2003. I bob my head to the music as I walk another twenty yards
and come to a series of three chockstones and scramble over
them. Then I see another five chockstones, all the size of
large refrigerators, wedged at varying heights off the
canyon floor like a boulder gauntlet. It's unusual to see so
many chockstones lined up in such evenly spaced proximity.
With two feet of clearance under the first suspended
chockstone, I have to crawl under it on my belly -- the only
time I've ever had to get this low in a canyon -- but there
is no alternative. The next chockstone is wedged a little
higher off the ground. I stand and brush myself off, then
squat and duck to pass under. A crawl on all fours and two
more squat-and-duck maneuvers, and I've passed the remaining
chockstones. The defile is over sixty feet deep at this
point, having dropped fifty feet below the sand domes in two
hundred feet of linear distance. I come to another drop-off. This one is maybe eleven or
twelve feet high, a foot higher and of a different geometry
than the overhang I descended ten minutes ago. Another
refrigerator chockstone is wedged between the walls, ten
feet downstream from and at the same height as the ledge. It
gives the space below the drop-off the claustrophobic feel
of a short tunnel. Instead of the walls widening after the
drop-off, or opening into a bowl at the bottom of the
canyon, here the slot narrows to a consistent three feet
across at the lip of the drop-off and continues at that
width for fifty feet down the canyon. Sometimes in narrow
passages like this one, it's possible for me to stem my body
across the slot, with my feet and back pushing out in
opposite directions against the walls. Controlling this
counterpressure by switching my hands and feet on the
opposing walls, I can move up or down the shoulder-width
crevice fairly easily as long as the friction contact stays
solid between the walls and my hands, feet, and back. This
technique is known as stemming or chimneying; you can
imagine using it to climb up the inside of a chimney. Just below the ledge where I'm standing is a chockstone the
size of a large bus tire, stuck fast in the channel between
the walls, a few feet out from the lip. If I can step onto
it, then I'll have a nine-foot height to descend, less than
that of the first overhang. I'll dangle off the chockstone,
then take a short fall onto the rounded rocks piled on the
canyon floor. Stemming across the canyon at the lip of the
drop-off, with one foot and one hand on each of the walls, I
traverse out to the chockstone. I press my back against the
south wall and lock my left knee, which pushes my foot tight
against the north wall. With my right foot, I kick at the
boulder to test how stuck it is. It's jammed tightly enough
to hold my weight. I lower myself from the chimneying
position and step onto the chockstone. It supports me but
teeters slightly. After confirming that I don't want to
chimney down from the chockstone's height, I squat and grip
the rear of the lodged boulder, turning to face back
upcanyon. Sliding my belly over the front edge, I can lower
myself and hang from my fully extended arms, akin to
climbing down from the roof of a house. As I dangle, I feel the stone respond to my adjusting grip
with a scraping quake as my body's weight applies enough
torque to disturb it from its position. Instantly, I know
this is trouble, and instinctively, I let go of the rotating
boulder to land on the round rocks below. When I look up,
the backlit chockstone falling toward my head consumes the
sky. Fear shoots my hands over my head. I can't move
backward or I'll fall over a small ledge. My only hope is to
push off the falling rock and get my head out of its way. The next three seconds play out at a tenth of their normal
speed. Time dilates, as if I'm dreaming, and my reactions
decelerate. In slow motion: The rock smashes my left hand
against the south wall; my eyes register the collision, and
I yank my left arm back as the rock ricochets; the boulder
then crushes my right hand and ensnares my right arm at the
wrist, palm in, thumb up, fingers extended; the rock slides
another foot down the wall with my arm in tow, tearing the
skin off the lateral side of my forearm. Then silence. My disbelief paralyzes me temporarily as I stare at the
sight of my arm vanishing into an implausibly small gap
between the fallen boulder and the canyon wall. Within
moments, my nervous system's pain response overcomes the
initial shock. Good Christ, my hand. The flaring agony
throws me into a panic. I grimace and growl a sharp "Fuck!"
My mind commands my body, "Get your hand out of there!" I
yank my arm three times in a naive attempt to pull it out.
But I'm stuck. Anxiety has my brain tweaking; searing-hot pain shoots from
my wrist up my arm. I'm frantic, and I cry out, "Oh shit, oh
shit, oh shit!" My desperate brain conjures up a probably
apocryphal story in which an adrenaline-stoked mom lifts an
overturned car to free her baby. I'd give it even odds that
it's made up, but I do know for certain that right now,
while my body's chemicals are raging at full flood, is the
best chance I'll have to free myself with brute force. I
shove against the large boulder, heaving against it, pushing
with my left hand, lifting with my knees pressed under the
rock. I get good leverage with the aid of a twelve-inch
shelf in front of my feet. Standing on that, I brace my
thighs under the boulder and thrust upward repeatedly,
grunting, "Come on...move!" Nothing. I rest, and then I surge again against the rock. Again
nothing. I replant my feet. Feeling around for a better grip
on the bottom of the chockstone, I reposition my upturned
left hand on a handle of rock, take a deep breath, and slam
into the boulder, harder than any of my previous attempts.
"Yeearrgg...unnnhhh," the exertion forces the air from my
lungs, all but masking the quiet, hollow sound of the
boulder tottering. The stone's movement is imperceptible;
all I get is a spike in the already extravagant pain, and I
gasp, "Ow! Fuck!" I've shifted the boulder a fraction of an inch, and it's
settled onto my wrist a bit more. This thing weighs a lot
more than I do -- it's a testament to how amped I am that I
moved it at all -- and now all I want is to move it back. I
get into position again, pulling with my left hand on top of
the stone, and budge the rock back ever so slightly,
reversing what I just did. The pain eases a little. In the
process, I've lacerated and bruised the skin over my left
quadriceps above the knee. I'm sweating hard. With my left
hand, I lift my right shirtsleeve off my shoulder and wipe
my forehead. My chest heaves. I need a drink, but when I
suck on my hydration-system hose, I find my water reservoir
is empty. I have a liter of water in a Lexan bottle in my backpack,
but it takes me a few seconds to realize I won't be able to
sling my pack off my right arm. I remove my camera from my
neck and put it on the boulder. Once I have my left arm free
of the pack strap, I expand the right strap, tuck my head
inside the loop, and pull the strap over my left shoulder so
it encompasses my torso. The weight of the rappelling
equipment, video camera, and water bottle tugs the pack down
to my feet, and then I step out of the strap loop.
Extracting the dark gray water bottle from the bottom of my
pack, I unscrew the top, and before I realize the
significance of what I'm doing, I gulp three large mouthfuls
of water and halt to pant for breath. Then it hits me: In
five seconds, I've guzzled a third of my entire remaining
water supply. "Oh, damn, dude, cap that and put it away. No more water." I
screw down the lid tight, drop the bottle into the pack
resting at my knees, and take three deep breaths. "OK, time to relax. The adrenaline's not going to get you
out of here. Let's look this over, see what we got."
Amazingly, it's been half an hour since the accident. The
decision to get objective with my situation and stop rushing
from one brutish attempt to the next allows my energy to
settle down. This isn't going to be over quickly, so I need
to start thinking. To do that, I need to be calm. The first thing I decide to do is examine the area where the
boulder has my wrist pinned. Gravity and friction have
wedged the chockstone, now suspended about four feet above
the canyon floor, into a new set of constriction points. At
three spots, the opposing walls secure the rock. On the
downcanyon side of the boulder, my hand and wrist form a
fourth support where they are caught in the grip of this
horrific handshake. I think, "My hand isn't just stuck in
there, it's actually holding this boulder off the wall. Oh,
man, I'm fucked." I reach my left fingers down to my right hand where it is
visible along the north wall of the canyon. Poking down into
the small gap above the catch point, I touch my thumb, which
is already a sickly gray color. It's cocked sideways in the
space and looks terribly unnatural. I straighten my thumb
with the fore and middle fingers of my left hand. There is
no feeling in any part of my right hand at all. I accept
this with a sense of detachment, as if I'm diagnosing
someone else's problem. This clinical objectivity calms me.
Without sensation, it doesn't seem as much my hand -- if it
were my hand, I could feel it when I touched it. The
farthest part of my arm I can feel is my wrist, where the
boulder is pinning it. Judging by appearances, the lack of
any bone-splitting noises during the accident, and how it
all feels to my left hand, I probably don't have any broken
bones. From the nature of the accident, though, there is
very likely substantial soft-tissue damage at the least, and
for all I know, something could be broken in the middle of
my hand. Either way, not good. Investigating the underside of the boulder, I can touch the
little finger on my right hand and feel its position with my
left hand. It's twisted up inside my palm, in a partial
fist; my muscles seem to be in a state of forced
contraction. I can't relax my hand or extend any of my
fingers. I try to wiggle each one independently. There's no
movement whatsoever. I try flexing my muscles to make a
tighter fist, but there isn't even the slightest twitch.
Double that on the "not good." Nearer to my chest along the wall, I can't quite get my left
forefinger up to where it can touch my right wrist from
below. My little finger can barely slide into the space
between the boulder and the wall, brushing my arm at a spot
on the lateral side of the knob of my wrist. I withdraw from
prodding around and look at my left wrist and estimate that
it is three inches thick. My right wrist is being compressed
to one sixth its normal thickness. If not for the bones, the
weight of the boulder would squeeze my arm flat. Judging
from the paleness of my right hand, and the fact that
there's no blood loss from a traumatic injury, it's probable
that I have no circulation getting to or from my trapped
hand. The lack of sensation or movement probably means my
nerves are damaged. Whatever injuries are present, my right
hand seems to be entirely isolated from my body's
circulatory, nervous, and motor-control systems. That's
three-for-three on the "not good" checklist. An inner voice explodes into expletives at the prognosis:
"Shit! How did this happen? What the fuck? How the
fuck did you get your hand trapped by a
fucking boulder? Look at this! Your hand is
crushed; it's dying, man, and there's nothing
you can do about it. If you don't get blood flow back within
a couple hours, it's gone." "No, it's not. I'll get out. I mean, if I don't get out, I'm
going to lose more than my hand. I have to get out!" Reason
answers, but reason is not in control here; the adrenaline
isn't wholly dissipated yet. "You're stuck, fucked, and out of luck." I don't like to be
pessimistic, but the devil on my left shoulder knows better
than to keep up any pretenses. The little rhyming bastard is
right: My outlook is bleak. But it's way too early to dwell
on despair. "No! Shut up, that's not helpful." Better to keep
investigating, see what I learn. Whoever is arguing from my
right shoulder makes a good point -- it's not my hand I need
to worry about. There's a bigger issue. Stressing over the
superficial problem will only consume my resources. Right
now, I need to focus on gathering more information. With
that decision made, a feeling of acceptance settles over me. Looking up to my right, a foot above the top of the boulder
on the north wall, I see tiny wads of my flesh, pieces of my
arm hair, and stains of my blood streaked on the sandstone.
In dragging my arm down the wall, the boulder and smooth
Navajo sandstone acted like a grater, scraping off my skin's
outer layers in thin strips. Peering at the bottom of my
arm, I check for more blood, but there is none, not even a
lone drip. As I bring my head back up, I bump the bill of my hat, and
my sunglasses fall onto my pack at my feet. Picking them up,
I see they've gotten scratched at some point since I had
them on in the open sunny part of the canyon an hour ago.
"Not like that's important," I tell myself, but still I take
care to put them on top of the boulder, off to the left side. My headphones have gotten knocked off my ears, but now, and
in my calm, I hear the crowd on the live CD cheering. The
noise evaporates as the disc winds to a stop, and the sudden
silence reinforces my situation. I am irreversibly trapped,
standing in the dimly lit bottom of a canyon, unable to move
more than a few inches up or down or side to side.
Compounding my physical circumstances, no one who will
suspect I am missing knows where I am. I violated the prime
directive of wilderness travel in failing to leave a
detailed trip plan with a responsible person. Still eight
miles from my truck, I am alone in an infrequently visited
place with no means to contact anyone outside the fifty-yard
throw of my voice. Alone in a situation that could very shortly prove to be fatal. My watch says it's 3:28 P.M., nearly forty-five minutes
since the boulder fell on my arm. I take an inventory of
what I have with me, emptying my pack with my left hand,
item by item. In my plastic grocery bag, beside the
chocolate-bar wrappers and bakery bag with the crumbs of the
chocolate muffin, I have two small bean burritos, about five
hundred calories total. In the outside mesh pouch, I have my
CD player, CDs, extra AA batteries, mini digital video
camcorder. My multi-use tool and three-LED headlamp are also
in the pouch. I sort through the electronics and pull out
the knife tool and the headlamp, setting them on top of the
boulder next to my sunglasses. I put my camera into the cloth goggles bag I'd been using to
keep the grit out of the components, and drop it in the mesh
pouch with the other gadgets. Except for the Lexan water
bottle and my empty hydration pack, the remaining contents
of my pack are my green and yellow climbing rope in its
black zippered rope bag; my rock-climbing harness; and the
small wad of rappelling equipment I'd brought to use at the
Big Drop rappel. My next thought is to brainstorm every means possible that
could get me out of here. The easy ideas come first,
although some of them are more wishful than realistic. Maybe
other canyoneers will traverse this section of slot and find
me -- they might be able to help free me, or even give me
clothes, food, and water and go for help. Maybe Megan and
Kristi will think something's wrong when I don't meet them
like I said I would, and they'll go look for my truck or
notify the Park Service. Maybe my Aspen friends Brad and
Leah Yule will do the same when I don't show up for the big
Scooby-Doo desert party tonight. But they don't know for
sure that I'm coming, because I didn't call them when I was
in Moab yesterday. Tomorrow, Sunday, is still the weekend --
maybe someone will come this way on his or her day off. If
I'm not out by Monday night, my roommates will miss me for
sure; they might even notify the police. Or my manager at
the shop where I work will call my mom when I don't turn up
on Tuesday. It might take people a few days to figure out
where I went, but there could be a search out by Wednesday,
and if they find my truck, it wouldn't be long after that. The major preclusion to rescue is that I don't have enough
water to wait that long -- twenty-two ounces total after my
chug a few minutes ago. The average survival time in the
desert without water is between two and three days,
sometimes as little as a day if you're exerting yourself in
100-degree heat. I figure I'll make it to Monday night. If a
rescue comes along before then, it will be an unlikely
chance encounter with a fellow canyoneer, not an organized
effort of trained personnel. In other words, rescue seems
about as probable as winning the lottery. By nature I'm an impatient person; when a situation requires
me to wait, I need to be doing something to make the time
pass. Call me a child of the instant-gratification
generation, or maybe my imagination was stunted from too
much television, but I don't sit still well. In my present
situation, that's probably a good thing. I have a problem to
solve -- I have to get out of here -- so I put my mind to
what I can do to escape my entrapment. Eliminating a couple
ideas that are too dumb (like cracking open my extra AA
batteries on the boulder and hoping the acid erodes the
chockstone but doesn't eat into my arm), I organize my other
options in order of preference: Excavate the rock around my
hand with my multi-tool; rig ropes and an anchor above me to
lift the boulder off my hand; or amputate my arm. Quickly,
each option seems impossible: I don't have the tools to
remove enough rock to free my hand; I don't have the hauling
power needed, even with a pulley system, to move the
boulder; and even though it seems my best option, I don't
have the tools, know-how, or emotional gumption to sever my
own arm. Perhaps more as a tactic to delay thinking about
self-amputation and less as a truly productive effort, I
decide to work on an easier option -- chipping away the rock
to free my arm. Drawing my multi-tool from its perch above
the boulder, I extract the longer of the two blades. I'm
suddenly very glad I decided to add it to my supplies. Picking an easily accessed spot on the boulder in front of
my chest and a few inches from my right wrist, I scratch the
tip across the boulder in a four-inch line. If I can remove
the stone below this line and back toward my fingers about
six inches, I will be able to free my hand. But with the
demarcated part of the stone being three inches thick in
places, I'll have to remove about seventy cubic inches of
the boulder. It's a lot of rock, and I know the sandstone is
going to make the chipping tedious work. My first attempt to saw down into the boulder along the
faint line I've marked barely scuffs the rock. I try again,
pressing harder this time, but the backside of the knife
handle indents my forefinger more readily than the cutting
edge scores the rock. Changing my grip on the tool, I hold
it like Norman Bates and stab at the rock in the same spot.
There is no noticeable effect. I try to identify a fracture
line, a weakness in the boulder, something I can exploit,
but there is nothing. Even if I focus on a small crystalline
protuberance in the rock above my wrist where I might be
able to break out a chunk, it will be many hours of work
before I can remove even that tiny mineralized section. I hit the rock with the butt of my hand, still holding the
knife, and ask out loud in an exasperated whine, "Why is
this sandstone so hard?" It seems like every time I've ever
gone climbing on a sandstone formation, I break off a
handhold, yet I can't put a dent in this boulder. I settle
on a quick experiment to test the relative hardness of the
wall. Holding my knife like a pen, I easily etch a capital
"G" on the tableau of the canyon's north side, about a foot
above my right arm. Slowly, I make a few more printed
letters in lowercase, "e-o-l-o-g-i-c," and then pause to
measure the space with my eyes and lay out the rest of the
letters in my mind. Within five minutes, I scratch out three
more words, then touch them up, until I can read the phrase
"Geologic Time Includes Now." I have quoted mountaineer and Colorado Thirteeners guidebook
author Gerry Roach, from his "Classic Commandments of
Mountaineering." It's an elegant way of saying "Watch out
for falling rocks." As most people
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