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Stories and Recipes from My Southern Revival
Harlem Moon
November 2004
320 pages
ISBN: 0767918479
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Cookbooks
Boasting a loyal
clientele that includes such luminaries as Quincy Jones,
Spike Lee and
Toni Morrison, Caf Beulah has become a major Manhattan hot
spot. Much
of its success is due not only to its renowned approach to
southern
cooking -- a delicious blend of traditional fare with
international
flair -- but also to the effervescent, larger-than-life
presence of its
ex-opera singer owner, Alexander Smalls. In Grace
the Table,
Smalls combines his storytelling talent with his love for
food in a
memoir of his journey from his hometown of Spartanburg,
South Carolina,
to Europe and eventually to Manhattan. "Growing, buying,
preparing,
serving, eating food -- the whole tasty subject -- captured
and framed
so many of my memories that in a curious way it has not
only sustained
me but given me life," writes Smalls, and his unabashed
passion is
readily apparent as he regales readers with such
recollections as the
first meal he ever prepared (when he was six), his
accidental but
rewarding encounter with Joan Sutherland, and his
adventures, culinary
and otherwise, while touring Europe as one of the stars of
the Houston
Grand Opera production of Porgy and Bess. As
a special
treat, 100 of the delicious culinary creations he invented
during his
travels are sprinkled throughout the book, allowing readers
to recreate
his menus and enjoy such Southern Revival dishes as
black-eyed peas with arugula and macaroni-and-cheese
terrine with Creole sauce.
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