That is the
question that has haunted Joan Nathan over the years and
driven her to unearth the secrets of this hidden cuisine.
Now she gives us the fruits of her quest in this
extraordinary book, a treasure trove of delectable kosher
recipes and the often moving stories behind them, interlaced
with the tumultuous two-thousand-year history of the Jewish
presence in France.
In her search, Nathan takes us
into kitchens in Paris, Alsace, and the Loire Valley; she
visits the bustling Belleville market in Little Tunis in
Paris; she breaks bread around the observation of the
Sabbath and the celebration of special holidays. All across
France she finds that Jewish cooking is more alive than
ever. Traditional dishes are honored, yet many have acquired
a French finesse and reflect regional differences. The
influx of Jewish immigrants from North Africa following
Algerian independence has brought exciting new flavors and
techniques that have infiltrated contemporary French
cooking, and the Sephardic influence is more pronounced
throughout France today.
Now, with Joan Nathan
guiding us, carefully translating her discoveries to our own
home kitchens, we can enjoy:
• appetizers such as the
rich subtle delight of a Terrine de Poireaux from
Alsace or a brik, that flaky little pastry from North
Africa, folded over a filling of tuna and cilantro; •
soups such as cold sorrel or Moroccan Provençal Fish Soup
with garlicky Rouille; • salads include a
Mediterranean Artichoke and Orange Salad with Saffron Mint
and a Tunisian Winter Squash Salad with Coriander and
Harissa; • a variety of breads, quiches, and
kugels—try a Brioche for Rosh Hashanah, a baconless quiche
Lorraine, or a Sabbath kugel based on a centuries-old
recipe; • main courses of Choucroute de Poisson; a
tagine with chicken and quince; Brisket with Ginger,
Orange Peel, and Tomato; Southwestern Cassoulet with
Duck and Lamb; Tongue with Capers and Cornichons; and
Almondeguilles (Algerian meatballs); • an inviting
array of grains, pulses, couscous, rice, and unusual
vegetable dishes, from an eggplant gratin to a mélange of
Chestnuts, Onions, and Prunes; • for a grand finale,
there are Parisian flans and tarts, a Frozen Soufflé
Rothschild, and a Hanukkah Apple Cake, as well as many other
irresistible pastries and cookies.
These are but some
of the treasures that Joan Nathan gives us in this unique
collection of recipes and their stories. In weaving them
together, she has created a book that is a testament to the
Jewish people, who, despite waves of persecution, are an
integral part of France today, contributing to the glory of
its cuisine.
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