That is the question
that has haunted Joan Nathan over the years and driven her
to unearth the secrets of this hidden cuisine. Now she gives
us the fruits of her quest in this extraordinary book, a
treasure trove of delectable kosher recipes and the often
moving stories behind them, interlaced with the tumultuous
two-thousand-year history of the Jewish presence in
France.
In her search, Nathan takes us into kitchens
in Paris, Alsace, and the Loire Valley; she visits the
bustling Belleville market in Little Tunis in Paris; she
breaks bread around the observation of the Sabbath and the
celebration of special holidays. All across France she finds
that Jewish cooking is more alive than ever. Traditional
dishes are honored, yet many have acquired a French finesse
and reflect regional differences. The influx of Jewish
immigrants from North Africa following Algerian independence
has brought exciting new flavors and techniques that have
infiltrated contemporary French cooking, and the Sephardic
influence is more pronounced throughout France
today.
Now, with Joan Nathan guiding us, carefully
translating her discoveries to our own home kitchens, we can
enjoy:
• appetizers such as the rich subtle delight of
a Terrine de Poireaux from Alsace or a brik,
that flaky little pastry from North Africa, folded over a
filling of tuna and cilantro; • soups such as cold sorrel
or Moroccan Provençal Fish Soup with garlicky
Rouille; • salads include a Mediterranean
Artichoke and Orange Salad with Saffron Mint and a Tunisian
Winter Squash Salad with Coriander and Harissa; •
a variety of breads, quiches, and kugels—try a Brioche for
Rosh Hashanah, a baconless quiche Lorraine, or a Sabbath
kugel based on a centuries-old recipe; • main courses of
Choucroute de Poisson; a tagine with chicken
and quince; Brisket with Ginger, Orange Peel, and Tomato;
Southwestern Cassoulet with Duck and Lamb; Tongue
with Capers and Cornichons; and Almondeguilles
(Algerian meatballs); • an inviting array of grains,
pulses, couscous, rice, and unusual vegetable dishes, from
an eggplant gratin to a mélange of Chestnuts, Onions, and
Prunes; • for a grand finale, there are Parisian flans
and tarts, a Frozen Soufflé Rothschild, and a Hanukkah Apple
Cake, as well as many other irresistible pastries and
cookies.
These are but some of the treasures that Joan
Nathan gives us in this unique collection of recipes and
their stories. In weaving them together, she has created a
book that is a testament to the Jewish people, who, despite
waves of persecution, are an integral part of France today,
contributing to the glory of its cuisine.
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