Chapter One
The Coffee Drinkers
In the small hours of the day, when town is so still as to
seem suspended behind glass, Ralph Boyce pulls his white
Ford pickup to a stop in front of the Utopia General Store.
He turns off his engine and sits alone in the darkness
outside the colorless brick front, facing the taped notices
of deaths and funerals on the glass door. Ralph has been the
first person to arrive at the store, probably the first in
Utopia to rise out of bed, for over half a century, and he
plans on continuing to swing the first set of headlights
onto Main Street for the rest of his days. He wakes up
without an alarm, feeds his dog, Fudge, and leaves the house
by 5:10 or 5:11, depending on when the weather report ends.
Ralph is seventy-six years old and he ran the store for
thirty-seven years. He retired over a decade ago and doesn't
quite know why he keeps showing up before the store even
opens. He figures it probably has something to do with
tradition. While he waits, Ralph listens to country
standards on the AM radio station. If the air outside is
mild, he'll lean against his truck and look down the length
of his quiet town, feigning patience. It's a strange thing
when a man finds himself locked out of his former place of
business.
Soon enough a few more old-timers lurch their trucks
alongside his, their dust-blasted Chevrolets and Fords and
GMCs lining up against one another like cattle in a pen on
the unpaved stretch out front of the store. If one of the
men's trucks is ever parked in a different order, or even at
a different angle, someone will ask him if he's feeling
unwell, or if there's trouble at home. The men nod at one
another and clear their throats, trickle out a few words on
the weather. Around 5:30, the forty-five-year-old owner,
Morris, who started working for Ralph at the store when he
was a high school sophomore and who now has a son of his own
in his sophomore year, pulls up. He unlocks the back door,
switching on the blinkering lights, before trudging up the
center aisle to the front, where the old-timers wait like
cats eager to be let inside after a long night.
"Evenin', Morris," they say, giving the younger man a hard
time about sleeping in, as he takes his place behind the
register with a tired sigh. When Ralph owned the store he
got to work at 4:30, so as far as he's concerned, Morris
should count himself rested. But Morris is groggy and likes
to wake up in peace, so he lingers up front, sipping from a
giant styrofoam cup of water. His register faces a Blue Bell
ice cream cooler, above which hang two wooden shelves
covered in deer pelts, crowded with pouches of beef jerky
and about a dozen mass market paperback thrillers. In a
little while some younger men of Utopia will cluster around
the register and share stories of dirt and intrigue as they
buy their gallons of iced tea and the paper-wrapped slabs of
steak they'll cook up for lunch over propane grills on their
job sites.
The old-timers, chapped hands shoved in jeans pockets, walk
barrel- legged toward the coffeepots in the back by the meat
market, boots creaking all the way. Tony Clark, a ranch
manager in an old RFD-TV cap, the cloudy outline of a can of
snuff pressed into his left shirt pocket, always makes the
first pot of coffee while Sid, whose sons and grandson now
run the lumberyard he once owned, Albert, a contractor who
built Ralph's house, Hose, a rancher and former professional
rodeo circuit rider, and John, the school superintendent,
bunch together on a plank bench, careful that their legs
don't touch. The town welder, John Hillis, who can trace his
family's roots all the way back to Utopia's founder, Colonel
William Ware, floats between the cash register and the
coffeepots, a toothpick settled comfortably in his amused
grin. The coffee drinkers range in age from those who served
in Vietnam and Korea to those who served in World War II.
Bud Garrett, the eighty-four-year-old retired postmaster,
has a full head of bright white hair that swoops to the side
of his forehead in an elegant wave. He wears a cream felt
cowboy hat, Wrangler jeans, and one of three pale denim
pearl-button snap shirts. When Bud got out of the service in
1945, one of his first jobs back home was helping to remodel
the General Store, working from sunup to sundown for
seventy-five cents an hour. "I got a quarter raise and I
would've signed up at that point to work the rest of my life
for a dollar," he said. "I thought that was big money."
Bud is six foot three, with long skinny grasshopper legs,
and when he bends himself down onto the bench, his knees jut
into the air high above his thighs. He thwaps his bony
fingers at the front page of the San Antonio Express-News
and winces at the headlines of debt and war. Bud is the lone
Democrat in the group and he likes to wind up all the
Republicans to his left and right. "George Bush has been
rich all his life and that's all he knows," he cries. "He
don't know who the little feller is!" For years he was met
with eye-rolling jeers, but now, as the men admit that gas
is high and the war goes on and on, they greet Bud's
hectoring with weary fatigue. "Morris said a while back that
he couldn't even remember who he voted for," Bud said.
"Remember, hell! Ralph, you too!" The men don't like it much
when Bud goes on about politics.
There are two aluminum chairs, paint-peeled from coffee
drinkers settling back into them for decades now. Ralph,
because of his long tenure at the store, has rightful claim
to the left one, which offers a clear view up the center
aisle out the front door. He sits with the polite stiffness
of a man invited to his son-in-law's house for dinner,
unsure how to hold himself now that he no longer finds
himself at the head of the table. When Ralph is amused, he
nods his head slowly in approval and let his mouth slip into
a smile. When he is annoyed, his face goes baggy with
disapproval and he stares hard up that aisle, tearing and
folding his empty styrofoam cup in on itself as he waits for
the ridiculousness being inflicted upon him to pass.
Ralph's friend Ted sits in the chair next to him with his
legs crossed, one tan Velcro-tabbed shoe bobbing up and
down. Ralph has given most everyone in town a nickname, some
of them inscrutable. ("But why, Ralph, do you call Melvin
'Tricky Bunny'?" I once asked him. "I guess he's just a
tricky bunny is all," he said, shrugging his shoulders.)
Long ago he christened Ted "Tennis Shoe Ted." Ted tried
protesting for a while, claiming he didn't even own a pair
of tennis shoes, but the name stuck. When Ralph met Tony,
who moved to Utopia years ago after he married a local girl,
he assumed the man's missing thumb was the result of a war
injury in Vietnam and he took to calling Tony "Hero." When
he found out that the man had in fact lost his thumb in a
roping accident, Ralph rescinded the nickname and downgraded
Tony to "Tiger."
At around 6:30, Sid waggles his fingers on his way out to
open up the lumberyard and get a coffeepot going there.
Albert, stuffing his pack of Red Man chew back into his
jeans pocket, his Borden chocolate milk bottle a finger full
of spit, lumbers off to meet his crew with a simple
"yehhhhhp," and the superintendent, a large good-natured man
who leads with his generous belly, announces that it's his
day to drive the school bus. As one shift of men take their
leave, Henry or Baby Ray or Milton smoothly replaces them.
Milton, a sixty-eight-year-old retired carpenter with big
saucer eyes behind thick glasses and a fading strawberry
blond beard, brings a reliable coarseness to the group. He
looks like a trim Santa Claus, if Santa wore plaid shirts
and baseball caps and kept up a steady patter of cussing.
One morning a cute little matchstick of a girl, a newcomer
Morris was trying out on the register, walked in the back
door and up the center aisle. She wore a tight yellow
T-shirt and a staggeringly tiny pair of shorts. The air went
still as the men tried to look without looking. Milton broke
the dumbstruck silence. "That girl ain't got enough ass on
her to make a dying man a bowl of soup!" he declared.
Every morning save Sunday, the men sip from their cups of
coffee, look at the floor, and laugh at one another. News of
Ted leaving in a snit because Morris was out of the 1
percent milk he liked bleeds into a story about the time a
waitress at the café got him so cross-threaded that he
banged out of the restaurant and refused to return for a
year even though he'd left his favorite cap on the table.
Meanwhile the store's wooden back door swings loudly open,
smacking shut behind the bleary-eyed young and old men of
Utopia, in boots and jeans and overalls, as they pass
through for a pack of powdered donuts or a pecan roll and
the day's first cup of coffee. "I tell everybody I should've
bought stock in Folgers," Morris said. He inherited the
coffee drinkers from Ralph's reign, and just as tradition
demands that Ralph keep getting out of bed before dawn, it
also means Morris must accept the old-timers' helping
themselves to boxes of sugar cubes and swizzle sticks from
the shelves when the supply in back runs low.
Ralph always perks up when Morris's thirteen-year-old
daughter, Kassie Jo, her brown hair mussed and legs endless
in long, yellow satin Utopia athletic shorts, drops by to
check on her box of kittens and grab her book bag before the
school bell.
"Mornin', pardner!"
"Hiya, sir!"
"You got a track meet this weekend, Kassadilla?"
"Yessir, it's going to be a tough one. See ya!"
Ralph used to have conversations like this with all the kids
in town, who had it clocked that they could walk from school
in a minute and a half flat for sandwiches and apples and
sodas at lunchtime. When Ralph and his best friend, Kenneth,
ran the place, all the upperclassmen would come by in the
middle of the day, laying their relationship and family
troubles out on the counter, hoping for some wise counsel
before they shuffled back for afternoon classes. Now the
kids eat in the cafeteria or get premade burritos at the gas
station or panini sandwiches at the recently opened coffee
house, which has WiFi, a drive-through, and a flattering
write-up in The New York Times framed and hung on the wall.
(The owners, a cheerful and hardworking middle-aged couple,
are also newcomers. For a few months after their arrival, a
casual rumor persisted in town that the man, because of his
Italian last name, was a mobster lying low in witness
protection.)