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Cooking with David Burke
David Burke
Haut cuisine and American know-how
Knopf
January 1995
256 pages
ISBN: 0394583434
Hardcover
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Cookbooks
David Burke is a new culinary star. And in this, his first
cookbook, he presents the innovative and inventive cooking
that has made him, in the words of one rival, "the most
copied chef in New York." The first non-Frenchman to win
France's highest cooking honor, and voted Chef of the Year
by his peers in America, David Burke is a true original.
Born in America, trained here and in France by such
luminaries as Pierre Troisgros and Gaston Lenotre, he has
developed a style all his own, emphasizing the twin goals of
taste and beauty. The Burke style blends the
principles of haute cuisine with French country cooking,
American regional specialties, and ethnic touches. He has
taken to new heights the originally European technique of
building a dish, rather than displaying food flat upon a
plate. He uses ingredients the way a child uses blocks,
building, creating layers of food, achieving a remarkable
melange of tastes, colors, and textures. In presenting
this concept here for the home chef, he breaks down
seemingly complex dishes into their component parts. He
demonstrates that what looks intricate (and fabulous) can be
easy to make. His classical training, combined with an
artist's eye and a rich imagination, provides the reader
with a genuinely new way of looking at and preparing
food. This is a soup-to-nuts cookbook, from stunning
hors d'oeuvres such as Pastrami Salmon, and Parfait of
Artichoke, Goat Cheese, and Marinated Vegetables, to
dazzling desserts like Three-Layered Mousse Parfait,
Red-Berry Sorbet, and Ginger Ice Cream. The heart of the
book, though, lies in Burke's signature main courses, which
he builds into delicious dishes wonderful to look at and
easily transformable into more ornate delights or simplified
into convenient and lighter one-dish meals. Among them: Pan
Roasted Monkfish with Green-Onion Sauce and Ziti and
Eggplant Bouquet; Roast Cornish Hens with Saffron Potatoes
and Chorizo Sausages; Sirloin Steak with Shiitake-Mushroom
Hash and Pickled Vegetables. Burke is not a
go-by-the-book chef. His chapter on flavoring your own oils,
vinaigrettes, and sauces reveals a whole new world of
intense and delectable flavors. He combines bread crumbs
with ground mustard, caraway, poppy, fennel, or coriander
seeds to create a remarkable crust. Burke opens up for
the home cook an exciting new way of thinking about
presentation (a whole chapter is devoted to the subject).
Plates do not have to match, he says. "Some dishes look
better on pottery, some on porcelain." And he sees no reason
why the pattern that marches around the perimeter of a soup
plate has to copycat the pattern of a plate used for a main
course, or even the pattern of the dish next to
it. Introducing a cuisine that both delights and
surprises the palate and the eye, Cooking with David Burke
is a book full of energy, enthusiasm, and true culinary
invention -- a stunning debut for a fresh and welcome new
voice in American cooking.
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